More about Writers

It is a very busy week here (my excuse for missing a couple of days). We are in the final throes of preparation for the WOSA Centennial celebration which begins next Wednesday. You'll hear more about that later. I have two more posts about the writers' talks, but today I have a few pictures for you.

On Thursday we were at the Hanifl Centre for Environmental Studies and Outdoor Education. It is a beautiful facility on the site of Ashton Court, one of the Mennonite properties that was deeded over to the school. Many students attended on Thursday (all the seniors plus some others, I believe). This shows them sitting outside waiting for the program to begin inside.

A formal portrait of the writers plus the organizers. Left to right:  Lalitha Krishnan, assistant to Steve Alter, curator of the Winterline Foundation for the Arts; Mehrotra senior; Lightman (leaning down); DeSouza; Mehrotra junior; Aitken (front); Davidar; Jha; Steve.

I like this one even better; I took it as they were gathering and waiting for the photographer. You can see how much they enjoyed interacting with each other.

Cambridge Book Shop set up both days; Wednesday in the Quad and Thursday at Hanifl.

Poetry and Prose Under the Lyre Tree

Wednesday afternoon following tea, three authors read from their writings under the Lyre Tree. They were introduced by David Anderson, Senior School Head, who compared prose and poetry to walking and dancing, an enchanting image.

Eunice DeSouza is a poet who lives in Mumbai. She read from her recent collection, "Necklace of Skulls." Her poems were short and very humorous. Her topics ranged from parakeets in her flat to her Catholic mother.

Arvind Krishna Mehrotra was the only repeat reader from last year. He has translated the "Songs of Kabir," a well-known 15th-century Indian poet. The New York Times reviewed it last May. He is an excellent reader and is a poet in his own right as well as editor of a number of books. A quote that stayed with me:  "The mind is a knot that is difficult to untie."

The third reader was Alan Lightman. He is the author of the well-known book "Einstein's Dreams," an imagining of Einstein's many dreams about the nature time as he worked on his theory of relativity. Mr. Lightman is both an astrophysicist and a writer, and teaches writing to scientists at MIT in Boston. He read from his new novel (to be published in early 2012), "Mr. g." He believes and is an excellent example of the idea that rational and intuitive thought can co-exist. "Mr. g" explores the creation of the universe in unlimited possibilities -- and in a humorous way.

Mussoorie Writers Roundtable

Last year at this time I enjoyed attending the sessions of the Mussoorie Writers Festival, focusing on writing and nature, especially mountains. This year the festival was scaled back to a roundtable, with only four sessions given by seven authors. The full programme and bios of the authors can be found here.

On Wednesday morning the Quad was full of teachers and parents. It was the end of Quarter Break and parents could meet with their children's teachers to discuss their reports. In the afternoon a number of the classes were given permission to attend the opening session of the Writers Festival in Parker Hall.

The first session was titled "The Craft of Writing." Three authors spoke.

Raj Kamal Jha is the Managing Editor of the Indian Express newspaper in Delhi. His novels include "The Blue Bedspread," "If You Are Afraid of Heights," and "Fireproof." His talk focused on the difference between writing and editing. He is an editor during the day and writes novels at night. One of his main points that resonated with me was that there is a constant denial of the other side, whatever that may be. Editors force us to ask questions and look at the other side. We should all search for the editor within and force ourselves to listen to others.

Palash Krishna Mehrotra is the author of a book of short stories, "Eunuch Park." His talk was about the difference between fiction and nonfiction. He had some interesting opinions, including that fiction comes out of the writer's own experiences, researching doesn't belong in fiction, novels should not try to correct social wrongs, and you shouldn't burden fiction with facts.

David Davidar is author of the well-known "House of Blue Mangoes," "The Solitude of Emperors," and the newly-published "Ithaca." He worked for many years for Penguin Publishing in India, Canada, and International. He is an editor as well as a writer. He talked a bit about the digital revolution, which he compared to Gutenberg's invention of the printing press. In the beginning story-tellers were the only method of sharing stories; the printing press made a gap between author and reader. Now ebooks are closing that gap. Books are being published without editors to impose quality on them.

Steve Alter is the curator of the Winterline Foundation for the Arts at Woodstock School, the sponsor of the festival. He is a well-known author of ten books, fiction and nonfiction. He is responsible for starting up the Mussoorie Writers Festival about five years ago, and it has become an almost annual event.

Connections

One of the most enjoyable things about our relationship with Woodstock School is the myriad of connections with people of all kinds all over the world. We have met people from many different countries and backgrounds.

I thought I'd tell you about a few of the one-step removed experiences I've had. This was sparked by a casual conversation with a visiting author at dinner the other night. Somehow Elvis came up while we were talking and it turned out that he had met Elvis in person when he was a teenager. Even though I'm not a rabid Elvis fan (I do enjoy his early songs which take me back to my own teen years), the discussion of his experience was interesting.

One of our current staff members is closely related to Dame Judith Anderson, the famous actress. I know her best through her portrayal of Mrs. Danvers in the movie Rebecca. A glimpse into a life shared with Hollywood notables of the 1950s!

An older friend, from the class of 1940, has written a book about his father who was a Methodist missionary in the 1920s. He and his wife worked in education and hygiene in a small town. He developed a simple septic system for the school houses and introduced it to Gandhi, who used it in his ashrams. I have a photo my friend gave me of his mother with Gandhi and his wife Kasturba. (His father took the photo.) The book is Gandhi's American Ally: How an Educational Missionary Joined The Mahatma's Struggle against Untouchability, available on Amazon.

I have run into Woodstock-related people at airports in the US and overseas. I know some alumni who like to wear a Woodstock School T-shirt when traveling in case they connect with someone else who is related to the school.

These are just a few instances of the world-wide reach of this place.

Misty Days

Usually once the monsoon is over and the rains have stopped, October is full of beautiful, sunny fall days, turning chilly in the evenings. This year the mist and clouds have hung on. Some days there are patches of sun, especially in the mornings, but overall it has been a bit depressing, as we can't see much off the hillside. But it is beautiful!

This view was taken to the east from Rokeby above the Chukker.

Towards Woodstock Villa on the way back from the bazaar

Several langurs in the misty trees off Zigzag path

This large bull langur was eating from a bush beside the path on my way down from Sisters' Bazaar. As I neared, I thought he would move away, but instead he just stared at me. I stepped back a few feet to wait a bit. Just then some people came up the path below and he jumped into a tree. I've learned not to trust solo male monkeys of any kind....

Bazaar Signs

Many visitors to India have made a point of photographing unusual signs (you can Google "india english signs" and find lots of them). Last week I took several in the bazaar that struck my fancy.

This tailoring shop specializes in "peeko" which is hemming of a dupatta, a long sheer scarf. (I just learned that from my office-mate Monica.)

Hotel Camel View might seem like a really odd name for a mountain hotel; there are no camels anywhere around. But there is a hill called "Camel's Back," and it must be visible from this hotel.

In India, jewellery means gold and precious gems. This place is advertising its imitation items.

An "English" wine shop sells foreign-style beer and liquor (not necessarily imported, although there might be some). A "regular" wine shop sells local hooch, which is not always safe. The licenses are good for one year.

Produce Shopping

Friday I walked into Kulri to see the dentist again. As last spring, I am having a crown put on while I am here. See here for my experience at the Oral Health Resort last May.

On the way home, I stopped to replenish our fresh food supply. Back in the 1970s we usually bought from the Sardarji, who had a shop near the Landour Chowk. Since then, he has moved toward the Clock Tower and carries a wide variety of goods, even French wine! (You have to ask for it.) His son now runs the shop a lot of the time, but I always like it when he is there.

I got some nice crisp Golden Delicious apples. They even had a sticker on them, similar to the ones we see in the US. These didn't have the code number on them, but I've seen some with the same numbers we use; it must be a worldwide system. The apples are sitting on our marble countertop in our kitchen.

I love guavas, but Dan doesn't. I get four at a time and stew them with a small amount of sugar. They are seedy but delicious. You can eat them raw but I like them stewed.

This is the first papaya I've gotten this year. The Sardarji assured me that it would be ready to eat on Sunday, so I'm cutting it up today. The two small lemons will add zest to the flavor.

Below the hospital is a small bazaar where the Tehri bus stand is located. There is a small restaurant/shop there called Sugar and Spice. They sell pillows covered in nice printed fabric and some clothing. They also have a bakery, so I got some flaxseed whole wheat bread. It isn't very tall, but it is very tasty. And they gave it to me in a small cloth bag. All this for Rs. 50, just over a dollar.

Dinner Out

Last night was our weekly dinner out in the bazaar. This time we went to the Tavern, an old favorite. We ran into another couple from the school and ate together. This gave me lots of food to photograph!

There is a new sign at the Tavern entrance. I'm not sure where the slogan "A belly full of fun" comes from...  The entire restaurant is on the second floor, above a row of shops.

Before the food comes, a tray of three accompaniments is on the table:  pickle (achar), onions in vinegar, coriander chutney.

The other couple were there before us. Ray's dinner came first:  chicken jalfrezi with roti.

Next came Julie's vegetable biriani with yogurt on the side.

Dan had chicken biriani, but it really looked just like the vegetable. There were pieces of chicken in it, but not particularly visible in the photo. I had the Florentine chicken sizzler. Two small pieces of chicken, breast meat attached to a bare wing bone (for a handle?), stuffed with a small amount of chopped spinach mixed with cheese. The very hot sizzling plate was covered with a large cabbage leaf. A pile of mixed vegetables was on the left and French fries on the right. The vegetables included peas, green beans, cabbage, and small pieces of cauliflower and broccoli.

The walk home felt good after all that food. It is beginning to get chilly in the evenings; my light shawl was very welcome.

Ladies' Rooms

If you have not spent any time in India, you may find this post a bit strange. You need to know that topics that are taboo in most western societies often come up in ordinary conversations here. The frequency and variety of intestinal distress symptoms are discussed quite casually. With the addition of water purifiers in all staff homes, it appears to me that dysentery is not nearly as frequent as it was back in the 1970s. (In fact, I've only been sick here twice in the past several years, and Dan not at all.)

When we were here on staff, there was one ladies' room available at the Quad level (not counting student toilets in the elementary classroom areas). It opened right onto the Quad and impatient female staff members could occasionally be seen waiting to get in.

One of the renovations that was done about ten years ago included removing that room and building a three-cubicle ladies' room at the back of the Quad. A great improvement! The pictures below are meant for old-timers who remember how it used to be (!)

"New" stairs and purified water fountain where old ladies' room was

Stairs and entry on left to staff dining room and ICT (formerly music offices and internal wooden stairway)

Gents and Ladies rooms in back of Quad; the office on the far right is Mr. Chopel's, who handles passports, visas, and foreign registrations.

Looking down in front of Mr. Chopel's office is the back entrance to the Health Centre

Sunday Brunch

On Sunday we were invited to a brunch at Eastwood Cottage, on the old Methodist estate below the back school gate. Marney is a new staff member in our office, specializing in social media. She and her husband and child invited a group of about a dozen or so. We had a very nice time eating and visiting with the others.

Marney cooking bacon in her kitchen

What a spread - omelets, pancakes, bacon, cinnamon rolls, tomatoes!

Several folks eating in the living room. Notice the boys gathered around the video game console in the background.

Abhra and Sandy with Tara -- the boys were playing the video games

Writing Workshop

Some of my faithful readers may remember my many posts on last fall's Mussoorie Writers' Festival. This year's gathering is a bit smaller, and will take place on October 5-6. It will be more of a roundtable than a festival; details are here.

Last week we were treated to a preview with author Merryn Glover Appleby. Merryn is a 1987 graduate of Woodstock. She was in my son's class in elementary school, and is a published writer of short stories and plays. Read more here. On Thursday she worked with high school and lower school students, reading from her writing and talking about the process. After school she gave an open seminar, billed as a writing workshop. At first I said I wouldn't go, I'm not a writer, but then I decided that it might be helpful for me. More than a dozen staff and a few students showed up. She read us a story and then had us write for two minutes beginning "I remember..." It was excellent and inspiring. After we wrote we each talked about how we did it. It ranged from going full blast on one topic to so many ideas flitting inside that the person couldn't decide which to choose. It was excellent and inspiring.

Merryn reading

Participants

More participants

Merryn & Namgay, student journalist

Dinner Out

Now that we were feeling settled in our apartment, we were ready to begin our routine of eating out in the bazaar during the middle of the week. I decided that walking to the middle of Landour would be far enough for me this time. (I was extremely exhausted last weekend when we went all the way to the Cambridge Bookshop at the top of Kulri Hill.) In the end, I did well and didn't even have to stop once on the walk up Mullingar Hill. So next week, on to Kulri!

We often have our first meal out at the Golden Restaurant. It is right at the Clock Tower site, across from the new shop Ram Chander opened across the road from his old one. The proprietor welcomed us, obviously remembering us from our former visits.

I set my camera on the table to be sure to remember to photograph the food for you. (Too often I dig in and later remember!) We had our favorite starter, paneer pakoras. These are cubes of paneer (fresh cheese pressed solid) dipped into besan batter (chickpea flour) and deep fried. As the proprietor saw me pick up the camera, he quickly added his menu beside the pakoras so it would show. I was delighted, and told him it was good advertising.

Oops, we served the food onto our plates before I got back to the camera. We had chicken do piaza (double onions) on the right and aloo gobhi (potatoes and cauliflower) on the right. Tandoori roti on the side.

Last year I wrote about the Landour Clock Tower, more than a century old and a major landmark. It was taken down to be rebuilt but municipal bickering and other delays left it a bare spot for many months. On the weekend we saw men working excavating down for the new base. However, work has stopped again and the hole is surrounded with barricades. We are hopeful that it will be rebuilt soon!

Wednesday

It is late afternoon on Wednesday here. Many of you are just starting the day. My day began with three Skype calls -- two for WOSA-NA business and one with my son. Amazing to talk to (and see!) people across the world.

Today was a teacher in-service day for all staff. Students had the day off -- it was supposed to be a fair-weather holiday but announcing it ahead of time lacked the excitement of waking up to find there were no classes. In the past, as the monsoon was ending and people were despairing of ever seeing the sun again, a bright day would dawn, the Principal would get up and decide it was the day. We have fond memories of day hikes and other special activities on an unplanned day in the middle of a busy life.

This afternoon a special tea was put on for the staff. Many were sitting outside in the Tea Garden under the Lyre Tree.

Monica and Neva from our office were admiring the beautiful baby.

Administrators and teachers relaxing

Choice of tea or coffee; unusual in the afternoon

Sandwiches, samosas, and gulab jamans on a nearby table. Who needs supper after that?

Moving In

By Monday morning most of the school board members had left and the guest apartment we are to stay in was vacated. Sunday evening we packed up our suitcases (a bit lighter now, having delivered some of the gifts and school items we brought along). Monday Dan arranged for a car to meet him at Suncliff (well, as close as possible, still leaving a rocky path to traverse carrying the bags). We were able to get into the apartment by the end of the day, around 4:30 or so. It was nicely cleaned and set up and we were happy to settle back into it. Today (Tuesday) we will get our trunks out of the attic and then we'll have our Indian clothes and household items that we leave here.

This photo is the stairway to the third floor of the Quad. The apartment is where our dear friend Diana Biswas lived for many years, and visitors still call it "Mrs. Biswas's place." There is also a third level across the Quad where the music rooms and some Lower School rooms are; elsewhere the buildings are two floors. (The Health Center was on the top floor there for many years. The sick students who could actually make it all the way up probably weren't terribly sick!)

Dining area and kitchen (quite roomy!)

Living room area

Monday Morning

Dear Friends -

It has been extremely busy and I haven't posted since Thursday. I promise a post on Tuesday! This is a quick post to let you know that we didn't feel the earthquake here. All is well for now!

Walking Home

This first week is pretty crazy for us. The Woodstock School Board is meeting, so there are lots of extra people around, and the staff are even busier than usual. I have a lot of work to do with the WOSA Centennial that is happening October 19-23, but most of it will have to wait until next week.

On my walk home yesterday afternoon I took a few photos of the monsoon foliage. Ferns and moss I know, the other plants are familiar, but not known by name to me. The ferns are browning, which means the end of the monsoon can't be too far away.

In Mussoorie!

We had an uneventful trip all the way from Chicago to Mussoorie, just the way we like it! We were delayed taking off in Chicago by an hour, but it didn't really affect us much. We both slept on the plane and arrived in Delhi about 6:15 PM. By the time we got to our hotel, we were ready to crash for the night. We spent Sunday mostly lounging in the A/C hotel room, as it was hot and very humid outside. We did manage to get over to Karol Bagh and our favorite Gujarati restaurant for dinner.

As we boarded the Shatabdi train, we remembered that it was just a year ago we were unceremoniously dumped from the train at Saharanpur and managed to snag a taxi to get to Dehra Dun the long way around. Fortunately, although the monsoon has been fairly strong, there were no washouts and we arrived promptly on time. We came straight up the hill by taxi, stopped at the school to pick up my walking stick, and drove on out Tehri Road. We are staying the first week with our friends Peter and Karen at Suncliff. This house is about a 10-15 minute walk from school, towards Oakville (where we stayed one spring), but not as high up or as far east.

Today I spent in the office, getting caught up on what has happened and meeting the two new staff members. Dan was happy to pick up the motorcycle and get it going.

The monsoon is nearly over (they say) but here are a few shots of how the mist looks. It was raining lightly when we arrived, but today has just been heavy mist and fog. The first is the top of the path between Tehri Road and Suncliff. The second is the front of the house, but not the part we are in (there isn't a good way to get a shot of it!).